Prompt: Stanley cup using GPT Astra + Blender

I made a Stanley cup in 3D, in pistachio, using GPT-6 Astra together with Blender. What defines the result in this kind of work isn't the click in the software: it's the prompt — the description that guides shape, material and finish until the render looks real.

I'm releasing this prompt for free, here and on my Instagram, @henriquesaas. It's all in the block below: copy, paste and adapt it to whatever object you want.

If you change the color, the material or the object and get something good, tag me. It's the kind of material that gets more useful the more people test it.

GOAL
Create in Blender an extremely realistic 3D reconstruction of the insulated tumbler shown in all the attached reference images. The images show the SAME product seen from several angles. Use all of them together to understand geometry, proportions, lid, handle, body, finish, metal ring and straw.
The goal is not an artistic interpretation. I want an extremely convincing commercial product reconstruction, at the level of advertising photography for premium brands, with realism beyond the references.

OVERALL SHAPE
The cup is a tall insulated tumbler, roughly in the shape of a 40 oz Stanley Quencher.
The body is approximately 27–29 cm tall, not counting the straw.
The upper section is wide and almost cylindrical, while roughly in the lower third there is a smooth transition to a base with a smaller diameter.
Do not create an abrupt change in diameter. The transition must have a smooth, continuous, industrially plausible curve.
The body must not look perfectly straight or generic. Look closely at the references:
- wide upper section;
- rounded shoulder/transition;
- narrower lower section;
- flat bottom with a small bevel;
- softly rounded outer walls;
- tall, elegant proportion.

Use clean modeling, preferably based on subdivision/controlled bevels, avoiding mathematically perfect edges.
All edges must have physically plausible micro-bevels to catch highlights.

CUP BODY
The body is metal, but covered in a very light pistachio green powder-coated paint.
Approximate color:
#C9CF86 / #CDD391
Adjust visually based on the references.
The finish is NOT smooth plastic.
It must look like stainless steel coated with high-quality electrostatic paint/powder coat.
The surface has:
- moderate roughness;
- extremely fine microtexture;
- random microscopic irregularity;
- broad, soft reflections;
- no rubbery look;
- no clay look;
- no clearly visible procedural noise.

The texture should be perceived mainly through grazing light interacting with the surface.
Do not create patterns resembling fingerprints, worms, cells or obvious procedural noise. The texture needs to look like real industrial paint.
Shader suggestion:
- Principled BSDF;
- Metallic close to 0 on the painted outer layer;
- Roughness approximately 0.38–0.52;
- extremely low micro-bump;
- bump strength approximately 0.015–0.035;
- microscopic, irregular texture scale;
- small roughness variations, not large color variations.

STAINLESS STEEL RING
Just below the lid there is a thin ring of exposed stainless steel going all the way around the cup.
This element is very important.
It must have:
- real stainless steel;
- Metallic 1.0;
- Roughness approximately 0.18–0.28;
- horizontal/circumferential brushed finish;
- slight anisotropy;
- defined highlights, but not mirror-like.

The brushing must run horizontally along the circumference of the ring.
Do not make perfect chrome.
Add small roughness differences and extremely subtle micro-scratches to break the CGI perfection.

LID
The main lid is off-white / warm ivory, not pure white.
Approximately:
#EFEBDD
It is circular and relatively thick.
It has:
1. a raised outer ring;
2. a recessed inner area;
3. a small groove between these areas;
4. rounded edges;
5. a green central rotating component.
The lid must look like high-quality molded plastic.
Material:
- roughness ~0.25–0.38;
- moderate specular;
- almost invisible micro-imperfections;
- corners with soft highlights;
- slight subsurface only if needed, extremely low.

Do not make fully matte white plastic.
Do not make ceramic.

LID ROTATING SYSTEM
On top of the lid there is an elongated pistachio green piece, roughly shaped like a horizontal capsule/pill with rounded ends.
In the center there is a slightly raised circular disc.
The straw goes through the center of this disc.
The piece must look like a real molded component, with small height differences between:
- elongated base;
- central disc;
- straw opening.

Do not merge the pieces into each other.
Create small contact/occlusion lines between components to convey physical construction.

STRAW
The straw must be slightly milky translucent PLASTIC.
It must NOT look like:
- steel;
- crystal-clear glass;
- perfectly transparent acrylic.

It is a real hollow tube.
It must be possible to see:
- wall thickness;
- top edge;
- inner opening;
- slight refraction;
- white translucency;
- soft reflections.

The straw must physically go into the central opening of the lid.
Model the opening, don't just put one cylinder through another object.

HANDLE
There is a large pistachio green side handle.
The handle starts near the top of the body and ends roughly at the transition to the lower base.
It has an elongated rectangular shape with very rounded curves.
It must look like a structural plastic component separate from the body.
Characteristics:
- relatively thick width;
- softly rectangular cross-section;
- rounded corners;
- large inner opening;
- two physical connections to the cup;
- slightly wider joints.

Do not make the handle look like a simple extruded Bezier Curve.
It needs convincing industrial geometry.
The handle material is green plastic slightly glossier than the body's powder coat.
Roughness approximately 0.22–0.32.
It must produce continuous, soft highlights.

PROPORTIONS
Pay close attention to proportions using ALL the references.
The cup must stay identical regardless of camera angle.
Do not change:
- handle size;
- handle position;
- lid width;
- disc size;
- straw height;
- body shape;
- lower transition

between different renders.
I'm building a single true 3D asset, not independent images.

DETAIL FOR REALISM
I want to completely avoid a perfect CGI look.
Add, in an extremely subtle way:
- roughness microvariation;
- micro-scratches on the steel;
- small imperfections in the paint;
- microscopic variation in the plastic;
- small irregularities in highlights;
- contact shadows;
- physically plausible ambient occlusion at the joints;
- small gaps between parts where they would exist in the real product.

Do not add:
- dirt;
- stains;
- damage;
- dents;
- excessive fingerprints;
- large scratches.

The product is still new.
This is premium product photography, it just shouldn't look mathematically perfect.

LIGHTING
Create sophisticated product photography studio lighting.
Infinite/seamless background using roughly the same pistachio green as the cup, but slightly more neutral/desaturated.
Use mainly large Area Lights.
I want:
- a large key light coming from above and from one side;
- very soft fill from the opposite side;
- a controlled rim/reflection card;
- broad gradients across the surfaces;
- a nice vertical highlight on the body;
- a controlled highlight on the handle;
- well-shaped reflections on the steel;
- a clearly visible contact shadow;
- a long, soft cast shadow;
- no flat lighting.

The light needs to reveal the geometry.
I want enough contrast to separate the volumes, but keep detail in the shadows.
The result should recall product advertising campaigns shot with large softboxes.

BACKGROUND
Monochrome light pistachio/olive green background.
The product must rest physically on a real floor.
Use a cyclorama/infinite backdrop to eliminate any visible horizon.
There must be a contact shadow.
Do not leave the cup floating.
Do not use decorative elements.

CAMERA
First create a main product camera.
Avoid wide-angle lenses.
Use approximately:
- 70–100 mm full-frame equivalent;
- compressed perspective;
- camera relatively far away;
- product taking up approximately 70–80% of the frame height.

First render:
3/4 front view similar to the references.
Then set up other cameras around the SAME model for:
- front;
- 3/4 front;
- handle side;
- 3/4 back;
- back;
- top view at approximately 35–45°.

Do not rebuild or change the object between cameras.

DEPTH OF FIELD
DOF must be extremely subtle.
The whole product needs to stay visually readable.
Do not use exaggerated cinematic blur.
In close-ups, there may be a slight focus falloff on the farthest part.

RENDER
Render using Cycles.
The final goal is photorealism.
Suggested settings:
- Cycles;
- GPU;
- Filmic/AgX;
- high dynamic range;
- 512–1024 samples for final;
- adaptive sampling;
- high-quality denoising;
- 16-bit output;
- test resolution 2000–3000 px;
- final at least 4K;
- preferably 6K/8K for the hero shot.

Do not destroy microdetail with excessive denoising.
Avoid clipped highlights.

COLOR MANAGEMENT
Use AgX.
Keep a soft highlight rolloff.
Avoid blown-out white on the lid.
The steel must keep information even in the strongest reflections.
The green must stay pastel/pistachio and not turn neon green.

LOGO
The main asset must first be built WITHOUT relying on the logo to look right.
If you add the Stanley brand later, use a separate decal or a clean texture mask, following the curvature of the body exactly.
Do not embed the logo in the main geometry.

QUALITY CRITERIA
Before considering the work done, check in close-up:
- silhouette;
- bevel continuity;
- shading;
- topology pinching;
- intersections;
- floating geometry;
- straw thickness;
- handle joints;
- lid finish;
- metal brushing;
- texture scale;
- shadow contact.

Fix any sign of:
- generic CGI;
- too much procedural noise;
- overly perfect plastic;
- metal looking like plastic;
- straw looking like metal;
- sharp edges;
- parts merged without separation;
- irregular shading;
- surface with an obvious procedural pattern.

PRIORITY
The priority, in order, is:
1. correct geometry and proportion;
2. silhouette;
3. correct lid/handle/straw;
4. physically convincing materials;
5. lighting;
6. microdetail;
7. final render.
Do not try to hide modeling problems with light, DOF or post-processing.
The final result must be realistic enough that, at a quick glance, it's hard to tell whether it's a studio photograph or a 3D render.